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Italian products in the Chinese food & beverage market (part 2)

Updated: Jun 11, 2023


A red wine being poured into a wine glass to serve. Fabio Ingrosso, 2008. Photo retrieved from Flickr.


In recent years, Chinese consumers have begun to appreciate wine more and more, despite the long-time distance in culture and geography. From 2017 to today, the value of sales in the wine sector in China has almost doubled, exceeding the threshold of 123 billion dollars, and involving more and more people throughout the territory (Gambero Rosso, 2022). In 2021, there were over 52 million regular wine consumers. Without a doubt, this result was possible thanks to the long periods of lockdown caused by the Covid-19 pandemic, during which Chinese consumers changed some of their consumption habits. They have also started drinking wine at home, in solitude, after a long day of work (Mazars, 2022).


Italy produces and exports various types of wine, including sparkling wines, semi-sparkling wines, still wines, dessert wines and fortified wines, but also in bulk and musts.


Sparkling wine is the one obtained naturally from the first or second alcoholic fermentation of fresh grapes, grape must, or wines, characterized, when the container is uncorked, by the abundant development of carbon dioxide, coming from the fermentation.


Semi-sparkling wines have a carbon dioxide content such as to create an overpressure in the bottle of a maximum of 2.5 absolute atmospheres; it is a wine with less intense and more sparse bubbles, as well as with less effervescence than a sparkling wine (Quattrocalici, 2020). Still wine is a type of table wine totally or almost carbon dioxide-free, which differs from sparkling wine in the absence of bubbles.


Still wines include every category of wine, both white and red. Dessert wines are obtained from dried grapes, which are then vinified regularly, like any other wine. The purpose of drying is the concentration of the substances contained in the berry, in particular sugars and flavourings. Fortified wines, on the other hand, are those to which ethyl alcohol has been added during a process precisely called fortification (Il Giornale del Cibo, 2022).


The Italian wines most preferred by Chinese consumers are undoubtedly the reds. According to Livio Mazzanti, an expert on Italian wine exports to China, the Italian wine best known by the Chinese is Chianti, while the most appreciated, currently, is undoubtedly Amarone. In addition to Chianti, other wines that attract Chinese consumers are in particular those from Piedmont and Tuscany, such as Valpolicella, Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello di Montalcino. Even white wines are appreciated by many Chinese consumers' palates, but to a much lesser extent than red wines which cover 75% of the market. The reason must be found in some social and cultural factors. White wine, which is produced without using the skin of the grapes, unlike red wine, contains a low concentration of polyphenols. This makes it less “healthy” in the eyes of Chinese consumers. Furthermore, white in China is associated with mourning and is the color diametrically opposed to red. Also, many Chinese consumers prefer drinks at medium temperatures, an aspect which limits the correct tasting of a good white wine (Cina in Italia, 2022).


Over the next decade, consumers in Asia are expected to account for half of global consumption, with one in two middle- and upper-middle-income households estimated to be in Asia and one in two transactions being made by consumers from that continent. This kind of new outlook reflects the sharp decrease in poverty rates and the increase in purchasing power with a consequent increase in spending power.


Traditionally, China is a society that still is heavily influenced by Confucianism, which still today plays a role of fundamental importance not only in social relations but also in the consumption of goods in general. After millennia in China, the concept of face (面子 mianzi) is still important, representing a fundamental element within interpersonal relations it is synonymous with personal identity and the consequent social positioning of an individual within a restricted group and in an even broader sense within society, such as credibility and reputation. Face fails when one’s personal performance within a group falls below the expectations of others or even below the minimum acceptable level, which is why many Chinese people in personal and professional life will try to do everything possible to meet the expectations of their counterpart (Gentlemen Marketing Agency, 2020).


Chinese consumers, therefore, throughout the wine evaluation process, need to feel reassured by the product they are going to buy, as this choice will carry considerable weight within their social group (China Business Review, 2011). Consumers of this type, when they find themselves having to purchase alcoholic beverages to be consumed in the presence of third parties, focus particularly on the quality, taste, and image that the drink itself can give. When there is a choice to be made between a range of wine products, producers must inform the possible buyer in the best possible way, through tools such as packaging, of where the wine comes from and why it is a high-quality product (McKinsey & Company, 2021).


The ideal buyer personas can be distinguished from three consumer profiles:


1) The regular consumers (about 9%), who are mainly resident in large urban areas and have large financial resources, as well as advanced education (they are those who look more abroad and to the most renowned brands).

2) The occasional consumers, who drink or give wine for special occasions, such as Chinese New Year or Singles’ Day, who therefore buy discounted or low-priced bottles.

3) Young adults (about 26% of the total) conquered through social networks and digital platforms, with tastes yet to be developed but open to experimentation (Retex, 2022).


One of the most interesting categories to analyse is represented by young Chinese consumers between the ages of 18 and 30, as they are increasingly beginning to adopt similar habits to their Western peers following the opening up of the country, they seem more and more enthusiastic about new wine flavours (Cina in Cantina, 2022). As far as wine products are concerned, it seems that more and more young people are deciding to consume wine, especially sparkling wine, to celebrate in moments of leisure, or simply during occasions of conviviality, just as happens in western countries (Il Sole 24 Ore, 2021).


According to research “The effects of country-of-origin on Chinese consumer’s wine purchasing behavior” conducted in 2008 by a group of researchers led by Xiaoling Hu, the “country-of-origin” factor is very important for Chinese consumers, who consider it of the same importance as indicators such as price. When, on the other hand, wine is purchased as a gift for a third party or conviviality purposes, then the “Country of Origin” factor becomes the main vehicle for purchasing a product, due to the image and quality conveyed by the foreign producing country. The data collected from this research show that consumers’ actual knowledge of imported wine in China is below average, as fundamental factors such as taste and aroma, which are essential in the wine industry, are not considered during the decision-making process (Cina in Cantina, 2022).


Methods of promoting wine products have changed over the years also thanks to the increasing use of new technologies, an example of that are KOLs. The function of the KOL, or influencer as it is known in Italy, who uses social media to promote a product and persuade their “following” to make a purchase, should not be disregarded. Lady Penguin, who has more than a million followers on Weibo (the Chinese equivalent of Twitter), is the top wine influencer in China (Cina in Cantina, 2022).


In China, as in European countries, to sell a product you must reach the consumer’s thoughts in a much more digital way in a 21st Century market. A KOL’s (Key Opinion Leader) endorsement can help spread the word about the virtues of a product, just as being active on Chinese social media sites can improve interactions with potential customers. Italian wine is seen as a premium item in China and, as a result, the social standing of individuals who purchase it is implied. It is also crucial to communicate not just the advantages but also the company’s history and ideals, for instance through taking part in physical events (like the courses offered to become an “Ambassador for the promotion of Italian wine”) or digital events, on the platforms that advertise Italian products.


Federica Braccagni is a master’s student in Law and Economics of International Exchanges. She held a Double Degree in Chinese for Business and Trade from the Capital Normal University (Beijing) and Ca’ Foscari University (Venice). She has always been passionate about languages, law and international relations, she has collaborated with《紫竹留声》Magazine, for the promotion of Chinese language and culture.

Giulia Busnardo is an Italian sinologist, passionate about oriental languages and cultures, graduated from both Ca’ Foscari University in Venice and Capital Normal University in Beijing. After winning the 2022 America Youth Award and the 2022 CNU Best Alumni Award, she is currently pursuing a master’s degree programme in Chinese Language at Ca’ Foscari University. In addition, she collaborates with several periodicals and blogs, including 紫竹留声报纸 (Zǐzhú liú shēng bàozhǐ) based in Beijing and European Guanxi. She has a very strong positive attitude and she’s always open to new challenges and opportunities not only to grow professionally but also personally.


The opinions expressed here are those of the writers and do not represent the views of European Guanxi.

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